Thursday, June 11, 2009

Day 23 - Boppard & Burg Eltz


Happy 21st wedding anniversary to us. We were hoping for a sunny day but it doesn't look like that's going to happen. But it's not big deal. We plan to tour Burg Eltz today which will be indoors for the most part. So we eat yet another German breakfast while enjoying the company of an Austrailian couple. who give us all sorts of tips for visiting their country. Mmm, that may have to wait a while.

Around 10 we hop into our Fiat Panda (let your imagination take this one) and head out of Boppard following a route recommended by our hotel host, an American ex-patriot. We zig-zag up and out of the Rhine Valley, then zig-zag down into the Mosel River Valley. But before we reach the River we stop at a lookout point with a panoramic view of the Mosel River and a number of the small villages aligning it's banks. Unfortunately the day is still quite gloomy, but non the less it's an "aha" moment.

Once we cross the river we follow the signs up to Burg Eltz. I've seen pictures of
the castle sitting on a rock surrounded by forest, but we're crossing miles of wheat fields and small villages when suddenly we begin a slight decent into a wooded valley. We've reached the parking lot of the Burg. We'll have to travel the rest of the way by foot. Fortunately the path to the castle is down hill and we'll be able to catch a shuttle for the ride back.

This particular castle has been intact for 700 years. Much of it is still furnished as it was 500 years ago. The castle has been in the same family for 850 years (33 generations) and looks the same today as it did in 1472. It was originally owned by three branches of the same family, all living within the castle. One family branch died out in the 1800's. And another sold it's share to the 3rd family branch who still has living quarters within the castle.

Now here's my "small world" story. We're waiting for the english tour and I notice the lady standing next to me has a San Diego key chain on her backpack. So I strike up a conversation asking if she's from San Diego. With a German accent she says yes and when I ask where in San Diego, she replys "Chula Vista" . As it turns out she lives on Del Mar Avenue which is about three miles from us. She grew up in this area of Germany and is visiting her family who is celebrating her father's 80th birthday tomorrow. As we're waiting she tells us she used to be a tour guide at this castle and starts giving us all sorts of background info on the castle, it's structure and the family Eltz. She said it was a great job, and after hours they used to party and sleep over in the castle. Now it sounds like fun but the place is a bit creepty for sleepovers. Anyway, the tour begins and we're given a close-up and informative tour going through two-thirds of the castle. The other third are the caretaker's quarters and the private quaters of the Eltz family.

Three hours later, as we leave the castle, we opt not to stop at the restaurant recommended by our host. We want to have a few drinks with dinner and don't want to have to drive back to Boppard afterwards. So we head back into town, regroup and start out on foot to a great little Italian restaurant right around the corner. Yeah, I know Italian food in Germany? We're in the land of wurst, schnitzel and wild game. If you know either of us you know why we're eating Italian. Caprise salad, penne fomaggia, basil linguine and a liter of chiati. It was delicious! We're saving the Rhine wine for tomorrow while we cruise the river! Guten Abend.

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